jeudi 23 janvier 2014

Van Cleef and Arpels in 20 years have acquired an international reputation , an article by Pierre Assouline

Van Cleef and Arpels in 20 years have acquired an international reputation , an article by Pierre Assouline

A N U A L E N ° 1282 - Tuesday, 24 December 2013 13
Pierre Assouline
LESVAN Cleef & Arpels
" In 20 years , they have acquired
an international reputation "
The former jeweler Jean- Jacques Richard , a former expert in gemology from
Courts of Rouen Nimes and runs a blog devoted to jewelry. The uproar caused by an article on the famous simpering Van Cleef & Arpels led him to seek more information about it.
This has resulted in a book , tracing the path and shadow areas of these two
Jewish families from Germany and Belgium.

Jewish News : Richard , why three years have you spent
the history of Van Cleef & Arpels ?
Jean- Jacques Richard : I want a blog devoted to the history of jewelry . I spent more than 40 years jeweler next to the Cathedral of Rouen, and expert with the court in the same city. Anyway, I once wrote an article about the Clutch (see box) Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA)
and there, to my amazement , the counter visits exploded and I began to receive
mail telling me that such and such a place , I made ​​mistakes names or dates. Yet I had all my sources and my references , but it is precisely they who posed problems! Books written about the VCA house turns information somehow official . by
example, it was written all over that girls Arpels Van Cleef married , called Estelle .
But all existing documents about it has always been named Esther .
Why change the name? Similarly there are several Arpels Salomon who are summoned Charles .
A. J. : Before going further into the
VCA saga can you give us
in outline the history of
J -J . R. : First of all there is the Van Cleef , who come from Cleves, as their name indicates in German and Arpels from the Netherlands. Salomon Salomon Arpels and Van Cleef married two sisters halves of the Mayer family. Solomon's son Van Cleef , Alfred who married Esther Arpels , a cousin , was trained as a jeweler , and joined by three son Arpels bought in 1906, a smaller arches of the Place Vendome . And then, what is extraordinary is that in less than 20 years,
and starting from scratch , they have acquired a truly international reputation , where the house Boucheron , for example, has 150 years to achieve the same result .
A. J. : What is it due?
J -J . R. : Primarily talent Alfred Van Cleef , the right jewelry designers and craftsmen he has to choose, but also he was able to raise funds through its relationship with major customers and the VCA house seduced . Later the house was among his followers and Duchess of Windsor
Empress of Iran . He has surrounded himself with the best as House Langlois who invented the invisible setting and Rubel artisans who developed the famous Minaudiere, which owes its name to the fact , reports Vogue magazine in 1935, it promotes coquettish gestures . I think
this definition is good and not that of Jacques Arpels who said that he was so called because Estelle was all the time affectations . Already this nickname Estelle has never been employed by it, but I do not see Esther Van Cleef , who in 1914 was in hospitals, now treat
wounded or gassed in a serious condition, passing his time " simper ."
A. J. : How was the period
the Second World War to
VCA home ?
J -J . R. Alfred Van Cleef died in 1938. And contrary to what the family hoped Arpels , because he was married to a Arpels is his daughter Rachel Renee who inherited his shares in the empire. And then there was Aryanization of Jewish businesses as you know .
Rachel Renee "sold" VCA its insurer , a Breton named De Leseleuc of Kerouara , which unlike other directors all made once the war ended. But Rachel Renee could not see the end of the war.
A. J. : Why ?
J -J . R. : Thanks to one of its employees she could get to reopen a branch
VCA Vichy. But it would défenestrée some time later from his hotel room.
What seems to me for various reasons questionable. The second strange thing is that his will, dated 1938 , that I found there is little in London, was his willingness to leave everything to his mother, a birth Arpels , with whom she was in from the cold death of his father . As they have not had children , it marked the end of the line in Van Cleef jewelery.
A. J. : It seems very mysterious ...
J -J . R. Yes, it is dark , and very interesting.
All books VCA was noted that one house had closed its doors during the war. But we now know that this is false. Another interesting fact which may explain why in Arpels Jewish names were abandoned in favor of more European names is the policy change
the house in the 70s . VCA wanted to bring Arab Emirates. They made this occasion a very large donation to a charity for the children of Palestine .
There was an article published in the American press article. From there , it was uncomfortable.

The clutch bag that triggered the research

A picture of this beautiful handbag gadget for ladies, light object of the house in 30 years , the history of Van Cleef & Arpels looks conceal , according to Jean- Jacques Richard , nooks and hidden from sight compartments. Here is how he describes the object : " An incredible amount of accessories fit in a precalculated site ( ... ) . The inside of the lid is a mirror. Compartment encloses the beauty kit , compact and red. This powder box can be removed and slip into another bag for the day. Another compartment contains the favorite cigarettes,
lighter is not forgotten, it is long and narrow , it repeats the same decorating theme that other objects which are guilloche enamel or , as appropriate . " ●

The first arch of the Place Vendome bought by Alfred Van Cleef . Discovered in the archives of the City of Vichy, published for the first time by Jean Jacques Richard , with courtesy e The Mayor of the City of Vichy : Mr. Malhuret .

More on the saga of the VCA site and especially in the book of Jean- Jacques Richard "the history of Van Cleef Arpels and ". And jewelery in general on the website

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